Rabat – Morocco Fashion Week came to a conclusion on June 4, and the event was littered with admiration for the Moroccan hospitality, culture and most importantly the fashion. The caftan was an integral part of the collection of many of the designers who took part in the week-long event.
The influence of Oriental and Mediterranean fashion was also clear over the two shows as a total of 15 designers presented their latest work. Creators such as Gemy Maalouf and Hind Tahini incorporated oriental designs in their collections. Others including Khadija Chraibi and her mother Souad looked to Spain for further inspiration.
Hind Joudar, founder of the Oriental Fashion Show (OFS), highlighted the importance of Moroccan fashion as she spoke to Morocco World News. “Moroccan fashion is known worldwide thanks to the Caftan, but there isn’t only that…the creations made by young designers can be worn by any woman worldwide and feature a Moroccan touch to it,” Joudar said.
The Story of the Caftan
While there are a variety of aspects to Moroccan fashion and its extensive culture, the caftan is a cornerstone of such a rich heritage. Believed to have originated in Mesopotamia and later popularized in the Ottoman Empire, the caftan made its way to Morocco in the 16th century.
The oriental piece of clothing was originally worn by Moroccan kings, the first to do so being Saadi Sultan Abd al Malik. Since then, it has evolved into an intricately woven and decorated garment for women across the country. The caftan has retained its historical value as artisans continue to create each piece by hand with care and precision.
The Moroccan caftan has gained international adoration in recent years, as was seen at this month’s edition of the OFS in Marrakech. The 2020 Paris Fashion Show displayed a number of caftans, followed by the 34th edition of the OFS in the same city which showcased a similar set of collections.
Today, both traditional and modern adaptations of the caftan are available. Mediterranean influences have inspired new designs that were on show during Morocco Fashion Week, but classic caftans can still be found across the North African kingdom. The brilliant new caftans created by fashion designers are just the latest chapter in the extensive history of the garment.
Moroccan Creators Abroad
The first designer to present caftans at Morocco Fashion Week was Khadija Chraibi, who showed off a number of the Moroccan outfits in her “Rena” range. Chraibi spoke to Morocco World News before her display about the influences behind her collection. The designer, who spent a number of years living across Europe, notably told MWN about her admiration for her home country and its fashion.
“I’ve always loved the caftan, so I wanted to create something you can wear for any occasion…each collection is 20-25 pieces with a central idea” She told MWN. “Marrakech is the place where people from Casablanca love to spend their holidays, so I’m super happy to be here”.
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Another Moroccan designer who has lived abroad is Zahra Lahbabi; she currently lives in Spain. The creator told MWN that previously it was not possible for Spanairds to buy caftans in their country as they were always handmade in Morocco.
Lahbabi remains deeply attached to Morocco and, as a parent, believes it is important to visit her home country with her children. “I have two kids so I want them to know more about Morocco. We try to come as often as we can so they know about their culture and their roots,” she told MWN.
Discussing the main aspects of the caftan, the designer added: “The key point and the value is that it’s handmade, so I have Moroccan artisans with me in Madrid… It was very important for me to have artisan work.” For Lahbibi, a key aspect of her work is that of chronicling Morocco and its culture to the outside world. “I want to show our [Moroccan] culture in Europe and how beautiful our caftans can be,” she stressed.
Dubai-based designer Hind Tahiri also spoke about her appreciation for Morocco. Tahiri, who is from Tangier, said to Morocco World News, “Tangier is a city that I adore, it’s always in my heart and in whatever I create there is a bit of it.”
Moroccan fashion and culture certainly made its mark on this inaugural Morocco Fashion Week, with every designer present recognising its importance. In that sense, this latest edition of the Oriental Fashion Show provided the perfect opportunity for the world to see the beauty of Morocco’s caftans and other styles.
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Whether it is Khadija Chraibi’s “Rena,” Zahra Lahbibi’s “Zaz” or Hind Tahiri’s “Cruise” range, each Moroccan designer incorporates their home country in their designs. On top of this there is also a real sense of personal connection to the Kingdom, which has remained a big part of their lives even as they live abroad.
Looking to Moroccan Culture for Inspiration
Wafaa Idrissi, another admired Moroccan designer, presented her range of unique creations on the second night of OFS. All pieces from her collection were indeed caftans, yet each possessed unique features that separated them from one another.
Speaking to MWN, Idrissi discussed what influences her designs. “Inspiration comes when I visit a country and see the architecture, or whatever my state of mind is,” she said. “This time I had a caftan I loved very much and I wanted to recycle it… This was a caftan that inspired me.”
The Moroccan designer also showed appreciation for the Oriental Fashion Show and its location this year. “This is Fashion Week for the first time in Morocco and the ambiance is magnificent,” Wafaa said. Although OFS has hosted five events before in the country, this event is the first edition of Morocco Fashion Week.
Zineb Hazim is another designer of Moroccan origin who has paid homage to the Kingdom’s fashion in her work. Hazim, who grew up in Italy, displayed her vibrant range on the opening night of the show. The creator told MWN that her love for fashion began after she started to wear a hijab, but could not find fashion that fell in line with her taste and values.
Hazim is particularly proud of her heritage, describing herself as “a Moroccan-Italian fashion designer who studied in Italy but never forgot her Moroccan roots.” While discussing her creations displayed at the Marrakech fashion event, Hazim stated: “As a designer, I am always committed to inserting my Moroccan culture into the made-in-Italy couture.”