In southwestern Morocco, surrounded by Saharan desert dunes, the luscious foot of the Atlas Mountains, and vast Atlantic waters, proudly lies the Souss-Massa region, one of twelve officially recognized regions in the country. Though considered one single region, Souss-Massa is an area of extreme diversity, with a myriad of unique histories, characters, and sites.
A modern coastline resort in Agadir consistently flocked by tourists, for example, contrasts with a number of remote Amazigh villages found inland. The seemingly contrasting facets of the area beg the question: what unites the region? Those who seek out the region will find that the answer lies in the resilience of Souss-Massa. Each part of the region has proven its ability to withstand the tests of time, adapting when necessary and resisting change when possible.
The inspiring strength of the region will leave tourists with a sense of awe and a better understanding of how to reconcile Morocco’s different faces. Continue reading for a tourist’s guide to Souss-Massa’s history, economy, architecture, and activities that highlight the region’s ability to blend old and new as a creative response to the tests of time.
Brief History
Today, the Souss-Massa region has a population of nearly three million people across six different subregions. Agadir is the capital and the most urban subregion. The other five regions include the Province of Taroudant, the Province of Tata, the Province of Tiznit, the Province of Chtouka, and the District of D’inezgane.
Though the region was first created in 2015 following a change in Morocco’s territorial framework, the history of the area dates back thousands of years. It is often said that the region was frequented by the Phoenicians, an ancient Semitic people. Some also claim that Agadir was once the site of the ancient port Rusaddir, referenced by Hellenistic historian Polybius, though there exists little evidence to prove this.
Evidence does make clear that the region was controlled by many different groups throughout its early history, ranging from the Amazigh tribes, to Islamic dynasties, to European colonial powers. Each of the various civilizations fought with resilience to assert influence over the region that would persist until today.
Aside from the inevitable power struggles, the region has had to contend with other natural challenges. Specifically, in recent history, an earthquake in Agadir forced the region to demonstrate its ability to bounce back from struggle. 
The 1960 earthquake killed between 12,000 and 15,000 people and damaged nearly all of the city’s infrastructure. In response, King Mohammed V, famously remarked: “If fate has decided the destruction of Agadir, its reconstruction depends on our faith and our will.”
Agadir certainty has proven its faith and will to reconstruct the city. Now it is widely known as one of Morocco’s most modern cities. One tourist website even described Agadir as having a “decidedly Western atmosphere.” This characterization has allowed Agadir to flourish once more.
Still, characterizing the whole Souss-Massa region based on its capital city, Agadir, would mean neglecting all of the people who are part of the story of the region that doesn’t fit into a modern Western narrative. Much of the region has been able to maintain its history and fight the encroachment of modernity.
Instead, it is more fitting to characterize the region by its perseverance and adaptability which leaves room for both the old and the new to coexist.
Economy
The blend of old and new is baked into the framework of the Souss-Massa region to such an extent that it manifests heavily in the region’s economy, which relies on time-honored traditional revenue approaches, such as fishing and jewelry making, as well as emerging industries, such as tech startups and modern shopping malls.
The fishing industry has been part of Souss-Massa’s history since the 15th century when a Portuguese fishery opened in the region. Today, the region has seven main ports, including the Agadir port which is among the most important fishing ports in the country. In 2020 alone, 39,881 tonnes of fish were fished from the region. 
Tourists can indulge in the rich maritime culture of the region in a number of ways. For a truly sensory experience, head down to the bustling Agadir fishing port, where you’ll be greeted by fresh briney smells of the day’s catch, the sounds of vendors shouting to convince you that their fish stall is superior, and the sight of locals and tourists clamoring for a chance to see and eat.
For a calmer experience, La Scala, an upscale fish restaurant in Agadir, offers grilled and battered fish, lobster, and duck meat.
Beyond the culinary world of Agadir, tourists can partake in fishing excursions in many places in the region. Black bass fishing (with a no-kill rule due to preservation efforts) at inland lakes such as the lake of Tamri’s Moulay Abdellah draws active tourists. Cliff fishing and boat fishing are also popular activities.
Though fisheries make up the majority of the part of the economy that utilizes traditional approaches, many other age-old traditions are also present, such as the artisanal silver jewelry business. Tiznit is specifically known for its silver, housing a silver market with over one hundred shops. Tourists can find it in the Kissaria of the Tiznit Medina.
Argan oil production is another business that’s persisted in Souss-Massa over time. Argan trees are native to the Souss-Massa region and their oil can be used for culinary and cosmetic purposes. Its slightly sweet and nutty taste and silky smooth texture make it great for dipping with bread or as a flavor enhancer in any dish.
Tourists can visit a number of argan oil cooperatives, including some women-only cooperatives. It is important to note that some businesses market themselves as co-ops, but don’t meet official co-op standards. Confirm that the co-op you chose to visit is an official co-op by checking the UCFA list at cooperative-argane.com.
Silver, argan oil, and other products can also be found in traditional souks (markets) in each of the provinces of Souss-Massa. Be warned that over time some of these souks have begun to cater solely to tourists and lose some of their originality. They are nonetheless worth a visit. Souk D’Aourir, 15 km north of Agadir, for example, offers tourists a spectacle every Wednesday.
These old businesses (fishing, argan oil, jewelry making, souk markets) have persisted because the Souss-Massa region remains committed to preserving its heritage and resisting the erasure of its culture.
But, the region has also embraced new economic opportunities and adapted when necessary. The city of Agadir, specifically, has increasingly become a focal point for entrepreneurship in the country. It is now ranked second in Morocco for startups according to the Global Startup Ecosystem index 2023. And, in July, Huawei organized a startup challenge in the region.
Tourists can witness the contrast between traditional economic practices and modern ones by going from the traditional souks to the Marina Shopping Mall, a luxurious center on the coast with shops and shops of international brands.
Architecture
Souss-Massa has proven its resilience by reshaping itself and rebuilding when necessary while maintaining its character. Proof of this is perhaps no more apparent than in the literal buildings of the region. Visitors will find that the region’s architecture stands as a testament to all that characterizes the region. It contains the old, the new, and the new imitating the old.
In each of the provinces, tourists will find traditional Amazigh architecture that dates back hundreds of years.
In Agadir, only a few old structures remain after the earthquake destroyed nearly all of the structures in the city. To see what remains, tourists can visit the ruins of Kasbah (citadel) of Agadir Oufellah. A short cable car ride to the site is worth it for the breathtaking views of the city and the Atlantic waters. Sunset is an especially popular time to visit.
The tragedy of the earthquake meant the loss of many historic sites, but it created an opportunity for intentional modern architecture, of which visitors will find hidden gems throughout the city of Agadir.
The central post office, for example, was designed in 1966 by Jean-Francois Zevaco, a French-Moroccan architect known for leading the modernist architectural movement in Morocco. The three-story building captures the eyes with its series of wooden panels following the modernist style.
Zevaco also won awards for his design of the fire station in Agadir and a series of courtyard houses. The fire station features a building in the shape of a semi-circle surrounding a protruding training tower with exposed concrete. The courtyard houses were designed with several cut out patios and internal gardens that are also worth walking by.
The Souss-Massa region has also managed to blend the old and new in its architecture by creating new structures that imitate the old ones. The new Agadir medina is a perfect demonstration of this. Designed by Italian artist Coco Pizzali in 1992, the medieval-looking medina is made from mud and stone sourced just outside the city. Tourists will enjoy a simple stroll and the opportunity to purchase local crafts.
In a 2018 interview, Pizzali told Agadir Media that his goal was to challenge all those who claimed that a “medina exists or it doesn’t exist, but we can’t do it.” In creating this modern, yet traditional haven, Pizzali embodied the spirit of the Souss-Massa region that refuses to recognize a place as simply black or white.
Nature
Engaging with nature in the Souss-Massa provides yet another way to experience the persistent multifacetedness of the region. A modern beach resort on the coast gives tourists endless activities on the beautiful waters, and hectares of protected nature reserves hide relics of the past.
For advanced surfers seeking a thrill on the water, a spot known as Anchor Point on Tagazought’s coast offers “Morocco’s most legendary wave.” Killer point, Desert Point, and Banana point are equally thrilling alternatives. Beginners can choose from a myriad of surf schools on the beaches of Agadir, Taghazout, Imsouane, Tamraght, and Tifnit.
Endless opportunities exist in the region for other water sports including jet skiing, kite surfing, windsurfing, boat rides, and water tubing. These activities can be enjoyed by tourists who are looking for a relaxing resort vacation.
For those who want to connect with nature through history and preservation, the Souss-Massa region provides numerous opportunities. 80 percent of the region falls under a UNESCO protected site known as the Arganeraie Biosphere Reserve. It is protected due to the endemic argan tree and fifty other plant species native to the region. Because of this protected status, visitors will find endless opportunities to connect with nature.
Souss-Massa National Park offers a series of trails for the committed hiker ranging from four to eight miles. The painted rocks trail, for example, takes hikers through rugged landscapes to a breathtaking clearing of painted rocks that make up a permanent art installation completed by Belgian artist Jean Vérame.
For a shorter walk, stroll or bike 2km from the village of Tazekka to see the Carved Gazelle, an elegant prehistoric rock carving that reminds visitors of the timelessness of the region.
Any of these choices in nature will leave tourists feeling inspired by a region that is committed to preserving its history and unique features.
Logistics
Because of Souss-Massa’s many facets and all that the region has to offer, it can be easy to feel overwhelmed and wonder whether a representative trip to the region is possible. Thanks to well-developed infrastructure and access to transportation, visitors don’t need to worry about picking and choosing between the different highlights of Souss-Massa.
The Al Marissa airport, an international airport in Agadir 20km south of Agadir, makes it easy for international tourists to reach the region from major hubs across the world. Visitors arriving from other places in Morocco can choose to fly into Agadir or take a bus from urban centers such as Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh, or Essaouira.
From Agadir, CTM offers buses to Tafraoute, Taroudant, and Tiznit, among other cities. It is also possible to rent a car to reach remote Amazigh villages.
No matter how one chooses to travel, tourists will quickly sense the pride in Souss-Massa regarding its ability to stay true to the many traditions of its past while allowing necessary and enhancing changes for the future.
