Rabat – Paris Men’s Fashion Week concluded this weekend, presenting Spring/Summer 2026 collections across six days of shows.
While the event is known for attracting major fashion houses, this season stood out for showcasing younger designers and a clear shift toward personal expression, cultural references, and functional elegance.
A new direction at Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner’s second menswear collection for Dries Van Noten marked a turning point for the brand following the founder’s retirement.
Presented in a minimalist venue in Paris, the collection featured sharp tailoring, bright colors, and modern silhouettes that blended traditional craftsmanship with a youthful touch.
Pieces included high-waisted shorts, fitted tops, and layered fabrics—demonstrating a refined yet accessible approach.
Rick Owens delivers a theatrical presentation
Designer Rick Owens staged a striking performance at the Palais de Tokyo, where models entered a shallow pool of water before walking the runway.
The designer showed a series of monochromatic looks, including oversized jackets, layered silhouettes, and platform boots. Several pieces featured intentional wear and text-based prints. The show emphasized movement and structure, consistent with Owens’ signature style.
Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton continues focus on spectacle and travel
Pharrell Williams, now creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, staged a large-scale outdoor show at the Pompidou Centre.
The collection incorporated global influences, particularly from India, and included tailored suits, woven accessories, and detailed outerwear. The set resembled a life-sized board game, with live music and a high-profile guest list reinforcing the brand’s global ambitions.
Subtle minimalism from Auralee
Japanese label Auralee offered a quieter showcase amid the theatrical shows. The collection featured soft tones, cashmere layering, and understated outerwear.
Focused on functionality and craftsmanship, it highlighted the ongoing appeal of minimalist menswear.
Issey Miyake’s IM Men explores materials through motion
IM Men was heavily inspired by Japanese ceramic artist Shoji Kamoda. The collection included textured fabrics and sculptural designs that mimicked the look and feel of ceramics.
Instead of a traditional walking runway, the show opened with choreography to emphasize movement and form.
Hollywood nostalgia from Amiri
American designer Mike Amiri presented a collection inspired by the 1970s and early 2000s American fashion.
With influences from Los Angeles and classic Hollywood, the show featured silk suits, embroidered jackets, and relaxed silhouettes. The setting and design suggested a balance between luxury and ease.
Saint Laurent revisits history with personal tones
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection drew from the history of Fire Island, a well-known space for LGBTQ+ communities in the 20th century.
The designs combined traditional tailoring with more open, fluid pieces, which contributed to an overall theme of liberation and self-expression.
