“A tale of two cities” is perhaps an apt impression of Sale’s old medina in its current state. In some parts, shops tuck themselves neatly under a vast expanse of ornate wooden ceiling; the intricate geometric designs imitates olden times, while barely-visible plexiglass exemplifies the touches of modernity that shields the shops and customers from rain. Elsewhere, shops lay haphazardly on either side of unkempt streets, with scaffolds and construction materials strewn about.

Sale Medina’s Renovation Project Uncovers History, Enhances Aesthetics

Rabat – “A tale of two cities” is perhaps an apt impression of Sale’s old medina in its current state. In some parts, shops tuck themselves neatly under a vast expanse of ornate wooden ceiling; the intricate geometric designs imitates olden times, while barely-visible plexiglass exemplifies the touches of modernity that shields the shops and customers from rain. Elsewhere, shops lay haphazardly on either side of unkempt streets, with scaffolds and construction materials strewn about.

Modernity is spreading in Sale, following the rehabilitation program of the medina, a royal project signed by King Mohammed VI in 2018.

With a budget of approximately MAD 900 million ($82 million), part of a MAD 2.35 billion ($210 million) program for medinas across Morocco, the Sale project is expected to be finished by 2023, Sale Mayor Omar Sentissi said in a statement.

Architect Mohammed Kroumbi from the Ministry of Culture gave Morocco World News the inside scoop on the Sale medina’s compelling history and exclusive sites not yet open to the public.

The Pirates of Sale

A common gateway into Sale’s walled medina is Bab Lamrissa, a towering arch of 20 meters. The current visible height of the gate is only the tip of its iceberg, however, because the canal that used to run through it was much lower than today’s solid ground.

Bab Lamrissa was constructed in the 13th century in response to a major raid by the Castilians in 1260. The addition was useful in facilitating piracy targeting European ships by Sale’s corsairs, Kroumbi detailed.

Small ships from Sale would speed into the sea, raid the larger European ships, and return to safety inside Bab Lamrissa. The efficiency of Sale’s pirates forced European leaders to pay the city tributes to ensure safe passage, enabling the city to flourish commercially and culturally.

The gates of Sale’s medina used to close at sunset. Spending a night outside the medina was unpleasant, so every day, lingering residents would spring toward the gates as their curfew approached — a spectacle the people of neighboring Rabat loved to mock, believing that “the people of Sale turn crazy at sunset,” Kroumbi explained.

An old drawing of Sale by the French. Photo courtesy of Mohammed Kroumbi

Renovating a Labyrinth

Inside, the calm of the religious centers, enveloping the Grand Mosque and the Madrasa, poses a stark contrast against the hustle and bustle of the commercial area.

Medinas may seem like sprawling labyrinths at first glance, but Kroumbi explains that an experienced traveler can navigate every medina across Morocco because streets are organized by the type of products sold.

Moreover, shops on the same street form tight-knit communities in which an experienced shop owner is designated the referee of all conflicts, whose decision everyone must accept.

At prayer times, shop owners take shifts with their counterparts across the streets, one praying and the other keeping an eye on the open shop to avoid the trouble of locking up.

Sale’s medina renovation project requires shop owners to temporarily move out onto the streets, something the locals were reluctant to do at first. However, shop owners’ unwillingness soon turned into eagerness as they realized the benefits: the aesthetic of the facelift attracted more customers.

Secrets under the Central Courtyard

One of the last areas still undergoing renovation is the central courtyard, home to a vibrant community that takes pride in its openness to all.

Any vendors, no matter their background, may claim a spot here every morning at no charge, allowing the disadvantaged to make a living. In addition to typical products, captured Christians were also sold here, usually as maids or brides.

To the side of the courtyard, an unassuming sheet of metal covered a hole in the wall. But inside the barrier is an astonishing archeological site: a chamber supported by over a dozen pillars, simple in design, yet elegant.

Inside the archeological restoration site. Photos by Selina Chen

Turns out, workers stumbled upon century-old pillars hidden underground in the process of renovating the medina. From these remains, archeologists reconstructed new pillars similar to the originals in an effort to restore Sale medina’s rich heritage. When the restoration is complete, the hidden chamber will open to the public.

A Cove of Musical Treasures

Another space soon to be opened to the public is a museum of musical instruments. Like the pillars, this courtyard is concealed behind a plain door, exemplifying the Islamic ideas of a humble exterior and rich interior.

This riad, with a meticulously decorated central fountain and ceiling lamps, was originally a lodging for traders. They would store their goods here for proximity to the medina courtyard, where they would open shop come morning.

Now, the rooms are lined with display cases holding an array of musical instruments ranging from ouds to violas. Some corridors featured rows of dummies dressed in uniforms of various music groups, both folk and military.

According to Kroumbi, the museum is scheduled to open in a few months, after which the collection of instruments will only grow as publicity attracts donors.

The Oceanside Fortress

The last stop of Kroumbi’s tour was Burj Adoumoue, a bastion hidden behind a locked cemetery, its interior accessible only through a dim tunnel. Currently, waste litters the fortress, but Kroumbi said he hoped to see a day when people can come visit and learn about the bastion’s history.

Unlike the stuffy interior, the top of the bastion presented an unforgettable view, waves licking at the sand in majestic splashes, with Rabat’s Kasbah des Oudayas visible just across the Bouregreg River.

A row of cannons —Spanish-made weapons which were turned against them— pointed outward, remnants of Sale’s determination to never repeat its suffering in the deadly 1260 Castilian raid after which Burj Adoumoue (Bastion of Tears) was named.

Perhaps Sale is more known for its status as a commuter city to the capital Rabat, but the compelling history and the people’s passion in preserving their heritage is worth showcasing to tourists and natives alike — a monumental task the rehabilitation program aims to achieve.